Are you still confused about the correct way to do electric welding so that the electrode doesn't stick, there's no excessive spatter, and the weld looks neat and strong?
Many beginners feel they have lit the arc correctly, but the results are still inconsistent because there are several small details that are often overlooked, such as choosing the electrode diameter, setting the amperage incorrectly, the material surface is still dirty, or the arc distance is too far.
It's natural to be searching for the right electric welding method, because SMAW welding often looks "easy," but the results can vary greatly depending on the technique and settings. One small mistake can cause the electrode to stick, excessive spatter, clumping of the bead, or a neat-looking joint with shallow penetration.
In terms of safety, welding is also a risky profession. Global data from labor organizations indicates that approximately 2.93 million workers die annually due to work-related factors, and approximately 395 million workers suffer non-fatal workplace injuries each year.
Other figures from the Occupational Safety and Health Administration also indicate that approximately 2,000 work-related eye injuries require medical attention every day in the United States. These statistics serve as a reminder that our goal is not just to be neat, but also to be safe.
In this guide, you will learn how to properly electric weld in an easy-to-follow sequence: from understanding the “welding electrode” in SMAW, selecting the electrode and its diameter, setting the current and polarity, lighting the arc, maintaining the distance and angle, controlling the movement, to properly cleaning the slag.
If you need the correct way to weld using electric welding for workshop work, light construction, or training, this article can be a practical guide.
Understanding Welding Electrode
In the field, the term “welding electrode” for electric welding usually refers to SMAW electrode. The electrode is a metal core rod coated with flux.
When you weld, the electrode core melts into the filler metal, while the flux helps form a protective barrier over the weld pool and produces slag that covers the weld surface as it cools.
Important points:
Electrodes are not just “consumables”, but determine the arc character, penetration and ease of slag removal.
Each type of electrode has a specific current recommendation and sometimes a specific polarity recommendation.
Therefore, understanding electrodes is the first step in how to use electric welding correctly so that the results do not depend on trial and error.
The Correct Way to Electric Welding
The following is the correct way to do electric welding, namely:
1. Select the Electrode that Suits the Material
The most basic but often overlooked step. For mild carbon steel and general training, many welders choose E6013 because the arc tends to be easier to ignite and control.
For other needs, the selection may vary depending on working conditions, position, and connection strength requirements.
Practical guide to selecting electrodes:
Mild carbon steel and everyday fabrication: E6013 is often a beginner-friendly choice.
General construction: E6011 or E6013 are often used depending on penetration requirements and surface conditions.
Heavier structures or loads: E7016 or E7018 low hydrogen type is often chosen, with the note that storage must be dry to avoid triggering hydrogen problems.
After type, adjust the diameter to the thickness of the material:
Thin plate: diameter 2.0 mm to 2.6 mm
Medium plate: diameter 3.2 mm
If the diameter is too large for thin material, the heat input increases, the risk of penetration increases, spatter increases, and weld pool control becomes more difficult. At this stage, your goal is to build a foundation for proper electric welding techniques by selecting the right one.
2. Set the Current (Amperes) Correctly
Incorrect current is the main cause of messy welds. Use these values as a starting point, then adjust them gradually until the arc is stable.
General guidelines for commonly used electrodes:
2.6 mmelectrode: approx. 60 A to 90 A
3.2 mmelectrode: approx. 90 A to 130 A
Characteristics of too large current:
The metal melts quickly and the weld pool is difficult to control.
Spatter increases
Thin material can be perforated
Beads are overstretched and appear to be “spilling”
Characteristics of too small current:
Electrodes often stick
Shallow penetration
Beads clump together and appear to be piled up.
Bows often break
Important notes about polarity:
Do not match the polarity for all electrodes.
Refer to the recommendations on the electrode packaging or product datasheet, as some electrodes support AC, some are better suited to DC, and some perform differently in positive or negative DC.
When in doubt, start with the manufacturer's recommendations, then evaluate the bow stability and bead shape.
If you want to quickly level up in how to use electric welding properly, get used to changing small settings, for example up and down 5 A to 10 A, then repeat the same welding path to compare the results.
3. Clean the Material Before Welding
A dirty surface is a shortcut to weld defects. Before welding, ensure the joint area is:
Thick rust free
Free of oil, grease or paint residue
Dry and not damp
Dirty materials can cause:
Porosity
Slag stuck
It is difficult to join well so the joint strength decreases.
Simple steps that often save the day:
Light grinding on the chamfer area
Wipe off the oil with a suitable cleaning fluid.
Make sure the ground clamp is attached to a clean metal surface to ensure a stable current.
This step is often the difference between “sticking” and the correct way to electric weld which produces a consistent joint.
4. Light the Bow with the Correct Technique
Many beginners poke the electrode too hard, causing it to stick and damaging the flux tip. Use a light rubbing technique, like striking a match.
The purpose of proper ignition:
Fast stable arc
The electrode does not stick
The initial beads are neater and do not clump together.
If the electrode remains attached frequently:
Increase the current slightly
Make sure the tip of the electrode is not exposed to slag from the previous experiment for too long.
Make sure the material surface is clean and the clamp mass is good.
5. Maintain the Arc Length
The ideal distance between the electrode tip and the metal should be approximately equal to the electrode's diameter. This is one of the core principles of proper electric welding techniques.
Impact of too far distance:
Lots of spatter
Beads are coarse and uncontrolled in width.
The bow feels “noisy” and unstable.
Impact of too close distance:
Sticking electrode
Bows often die
Beads are piled up and not well integrated
Healthy bow indicators:
Stable and consistent sound
Easy to control weld pool
Beads are formed evenly
The best practice for beginners is to make several straight weld lines on the practice plate while focusing on maintaining distance, without thinking about the movement pattern yet.
6. Adjust the Electrode Angle Correctly
The electrode angle affects the penetration and direction of slag flow. Generally:
An angle of approximately 10 degrees to 15 degrees from the vertical line
Lean towards the direction of the welding movement
Benefits of correct angles:
More even penetration
The slag is pushed back so that the weld pool is "cleaner"
Beads are more symmetrical
Common mistakes:
Too vertical, the weld pool is less controlled and the bead tends to pile up.
Too much slag can interfere with the weld pool and make the finished product dirty.
The right angle makes the proper way to electric weld feel easier because you are not “fighting” the character of the slag flow.
7. Steady and Consistent Hand Movements
Once the flow, distance, and angle are sorted, the next key is consistency of movement. There are two commonly used movement approaches:
Stringer bead or straight motion
Suitable for thin plates and joints that are not too wide, because the heat is more controlled and the risk of penetration is smaller.Move slightly sideways for wider joints
Use as needed, with a small swing width to keep the weld pool protected and prevent excessive heat buildup.
Avoid these 2 habits:
Too fast: shallow welds, poorly bonded joints, thin-looking beads
Too slow: material overheats, bead widens, risk of deformation and holes increases
Effective exercises to build good and correct electric welding techniques:
Mark a straight line on the training plate
Create 5 weld lines at the same speed
Compare bead width, bead height, and amount of spatter.
Adjust little by little until the results are most stable.
8. Let the Slag Cool Before Cleaning
Don't strike the slag while it's still red. Besides being dangerous, hot slag tends to fall apart more slowly.
Correct steps:
Wait until the slag hardens
Tap lightly with a welding hammer
Clean the remaining slag with a electrode brush
Signs that the welding parameters are close to being correct are usually that the slag is easier to remove, the bead looks clean, and the spatter is not excessive.
This habit helps you maintain quality if you want to apply the correct electric welding method to real work, not just practice.
9. Use complete PPE (MANDATORY)
Safety is not an option. At a minimum, use:
Welding helmet with appropriate lens darkness
Welding gloves
Apron or long-sleeved shirt made of heat and splash-safe material
Safety shoes
Electric welding produces:
Strong rays that can harm the eyes and skin
Hot metal sparks
Risk of electric shock if installation, wiring or work environment is unsafe
Additional safety habits that are often forgotten:
Ensure the work area is well ventilated
Keep flammable materials away from splash areas
Check cables and connectors before starting
Do not weld in wet or damp areas
If you are targeting how to use electric welding properly and correctly, PPE is the main requirement, not an addition.
Conclusion
The correct way to electric weld isn't about talent, but about a disciplined work sequence: choose an electrode and diameter appropriate to the material, set the current according to the electrode size, ensure the material is clean, ignite the arc with the correct technique, maintain the distance and angle, and then move your hand steadily at a consistent speed. Finally, clean the slag when it has cooled and never neglect PPE.
With this pattern, you will more quickly master the proper and correct way of electric welding, the proper and correct way of electric welding, and the correct way of using electric welding without wasting a lot of electrodes on trial and error.
Choosing the right electrode will really help the welding results to be more stable, neat, and have minimal defects.
At Intan Pertiwi Industri, we offer a range of KOBELCO electrodes and welding electrodes for your workshop and project welding needs, complete with product information and technical support to help you choose the most suitable consumable for your material and application.
FAQs
Why do electric welding electrodes often stick when welding?
Electrode sticking is usually caused by too low a current, too close an arc, or incorrect arc ignition technique. Ensure the amperage matches the electrode diameter, ignite the arc with a light strobing technique, and maintain an arc length approximately equal to the electrode diameter to ensure a stable arc.
What is the correct amperage for 2.6 mm and 3.2 mm electrodes?
As a starting point, 2.6 mm electrodes generally fit in the 60 A to 90 A range, while 3.2 mm electrodes generally fit in the 90 A to 130 A range. After that, adjust gradually based on arc stability, bead shape, and material condition for more consistent results.
Does the material surface have to be cleaned before electric welding?
Yes, cleaning is mandatory because rust, oil, paint, and moisture can cause porosity, trapped slag, and poor joint integrity. At a minimum, lightly grind the joint area, remove any oil, and ensure the ground clamp is attached to clean metal to ensure a stable current flow.
How to keep the weld results neat and without a lot of spatter?
Use the right combination of parameters: select an electrode diameter that matches the plate thickness, set the recommended amperage, maintain a stable arc distance, and adjust the electrode angle to about 10 to 15 degrees relative to the direction of travel. Also, keep your hand speed between too fast and too slow to maintain control of the weld pool.
When should slag be cleaned, and how?
Slag should be removed after it has cooled and hardened, not while it's still red. Wait a few moments, tap lightly with a welding hammer, then clean off any remaining slag using a electrode brush. Easily removed slag usually indicates the current, arc distance, and electrode angle are approximately correct.
